Go Together Life

Rome in July can feel like walking through an oven, and on our recent visit, the heatwave was absolutely relentless. The kind of heat that turns every patch of shade into a battleground, every gelato stop into a survival strategy, and every family member into a sweaty puddle of protest.

We had grand plans for our three-day stay: the Colosseum, the Vatican, fountains, ruins, and all the rest. But after just one scorched day of sightseeing, mutiny was brewing among the ranks. The teens were wilting, the adults were cranky, and no amount of pistachio gelato was going to save us. A new plan was urgently needed.

Enter: Lake Albano.

A quick bit of Googling pointed us toward a local secret: a deep blue volcanic lake just 40 minutes outside the city, nestled in the hills of Castel Gandolfo (yes, that Castel Gandolfo, the pope’s summer residence). A quick click and €4.60 return tickets later, we were set for a heatwave escape.

We hopped on the morning train from Rome Termini, and by the time we stepped off at Castel Gandolfo, the mood had already lifted. The view from the station down over the sparkling lake was breathtaking, and, most importantly, promisingly cool. You can buy your train tickets at the station, but we purchased ours online and in advance to ensure we got seats at the time we wanted.

From the station, you can head uphill into the historic town, but for us, there was no debate. It was 9:30 a.m. and already sweltering. We took the 20-minute walk downhill to the lake, skipping the infrequent bus in favor of getting our toes in the water faster.

Lake Albano is a volcanic crater lake with deep blue waters, black sand, and just the right kind of low-key energy. The shore is dotted with beach clubs, restaurants, and a small stretch of public beach. We made a beeline for Giorgio’s Beach (okay, technically we just stopped at the first decent option because we were impatient) and paid €15 per two loungers with an umbrella, money very well spent for access to shade, bathrooms, and cold drinks.

A word of warning: that volcanic black sand gets hot. Every trip into the lake was a frantic, yelping dance across scalding grains, and water shoes would’ve been a smart move. Lesson learned.

Most beach clubs have jetties that stretch out into the water and after a few hilarious attempts to walk into the water via the muddy stretch directly at the shore, we quickly discovered these to be by far the best way to enter the cool depths of the lake.

We spent a blissful few hours alternating between floating in the lake, lounging under umbrellas, and consuming more gelato. The teens were in heaven, especially once we discovered the flamingo-shaped pedal boats (€10/hour) and set off on a slightly chaotic, highly entertaining water chase. It turns out pedal boats are not known for their speed, but they are excellent platforms for diving and laughing.

There’s also beach volleyball and other facilities nearby, but it was far too hot to do anything that didn’t involve water. So instead, we played our traditional game of HORSE (which we always travel with a small ball for. Highly recommended!), floated lazily, and soaked in the calm.

We did accidentally invade a local’s private floating platform (we swear there was no sign), but after a slightly sheepish retreat, peace was restored. We wrapped up the morning with lunch at a lakeside restaurant that opened a little early just for us. The food was simple and delicious, made even better by the setting and the absence of any fellow tourists.

Honestly, that was the magic of it all. It felt like stepping into someone else’s summer routine, the kind of place you’d go if you lived nearby and just needed a break. Surrounded by locals, sharing sun-soaked moments, we got to experience a quieter, gentler rhythm of Roman life.

The only downside? The climb back up the hill to the train station, which undid most of the refreshing effects of the lake. By the time we reached the platform, we were dripping again and seriously tempted to walk right back down for one last swim.

Still, it was a perfect little escape,  a pause in the chaos, a moment of joy, and a day that reminded us (once again) that sometimes the best memories come when you ditch the plan and follow the heat-stricken instinct to dive into the nearest lake.